G5 Club banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I'd first like to thank everyone on these forums; As this build wouldn't have happened without the knowledge I gathered from here, so thank you to everyone. I bought a 2009 G5 Base ~6months ago and decided to supercharge it; That's what lead me to this forum. The plan is to SC the current engine with a conservative tune to daily it as I'm rebuilding another 2.2 . I settled on the ZZP supercharger kit, only to find out they no longer had M62s or the intake manifold. This meant I had to find said parts, which I did. Along with the kit, I also purchased the Header & DP combo (catback is next). Got the AEM X-Series OBDII Wideband, Prosport EVO Boost gauge, Oil CatchCan & HPTuners.

The build is going to happen here in a month or two, so I'm making sure I didn't miss anything. I read somewhere that I'll need the LSJ oil dipstick tube. I asked ZZP to confirm this and they said you can't get it anymore most people just modify their current tube(with no explanation of "how" ) Is the LSJ tube required? Another thing that's concerning me is the M62. The person I bought it from said it just got rebuilt. However when I got it, I turned the pully by hand and it has a weird grinding sound. It sounds more of a metal on metal grinding rather than a bearing. Is this normal for a roots style charger? Other than those two things, Am I missing anything important/required?
Thank you for any help you can give.
-Dab
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
604 Posts
1) I don't think you'll need the dipstick tube, but I'll need somebody else to confirm
2) No. The fins will be firm to push, but there should be no 'sounds'. The bearings may not have been seated properly, or are toast. You'll need to remove the snout to confirm.
3) Option B tank and dual pass are usually highly recommended that are not part of the ZZP kit.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Doc-Z

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1) I don't think you'll need the dipstick tube, but I'll need somebody else to confirm
2) No. The fins will be firm to push, but there should be no 'sounds'. The bearings may not have been seated properly, or are toast. You'll need to remove the snout to confirm.
3) Option B tank and dual pass are usually highly recommended that are not part of the ZZP kit.
Thanx for the reply man, again any help is good help 👍

Yeah unfortunately that's what I was thinking as well, those needle bearings might be toast. Read up on a rebuild tutorial and they said you'll hear the rotors touching if those bearings are bad. I should also look for scoring on the rotors/housing to make sure nothing was messed up. Side Note: The person I bought it from also did a port job on it. Which makes me suspicious at the fact there might be metal in the housing from the porting. Regardless the M62 needs to be taken apart, thank you for the heads up.
Second: I was debating the Option B due to bleeding the air & filling. Your suggestion leans me towards picking it up. I do live in a cool climate (Maine) would the dual pass really make that much of a difference in my AITs? It's kind of pricey at $200, that's almost as much as I paid for the M62 lol . However, if the dual-pass will in the end increase the longevity of the Supercharger I'm down for it. I've been working hard on this project as it's my first FI, been an NA guy my whole life. The last thing I want is for it to pop before I'm done with the rebuilt 2.2.
Thank you for your input Dark. As I mentioned, any input is good input.

-Dab
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
604 Posts
Ported as well? You'll need to be extra careful, that also can ruin the supercharger if not properly done (messes with airflow fluidity intake if off slightly). Hopefully you didn't spend too much on it. I got mine from an old member here and hasn't had much use (and is stock) if a replacement is required. As for the cooling, the supercharger, like all FI get VERY hot, so it's extra important to try to keep it relatively cool, even in colder climates. The Option B + Dual Pass + Intercooler Kit and you're good, even if you track (oil pan may need an upgrade if you don't do the .5oz overfill). With those 3, you'll have significantly less issues as most problems with the SC is the heat distribution.

For winter use, you'll need to run the car for a few minutes before driving around and 20 minutes before going into 'boost' (5 psi or higher).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ported as well? You'll need to be extra careful, that also can ruin the supercharger if not properly done (messes with airflow fluidity intake if off slightly). Hopefully you didn't spend too much on it. I got mine from an old member here and hasn't had much use (and is stock) if a replacement is required. As for the cooling, the supercharger, like all FI get VERY hot, so it's extra important to try to keep it relatively cool, even in colder climates. The Option B + Dual Pass + Intercooler Kit and you're good, even if you track (oil pan may need an upgrade if you don't do the .5oz overfill). With those 3, you'll have significantly less issues as most problems with the SC is the heat distribution.

For winter use, you'll need to run the car for a few minutes before driving around and 20 minutes before going into 'boost' (5 psi or higher).
If you subtract the pully that came with it, I didn't pay THAT much. If anything it's a learning mistake, we all make them.
Option B+Dual Pass it is then :p I understand heat is a killer; probably just like CPUs & GPUs, the more cooling the better.
As for warming the car up, I do it every time I start it. Let it get to ~150f before I drive it. No problems letting it warm up a bit more for boost.
I'm no expert on porting jobs, but to me it's very minimal. If anything it looks as if they just cleaned up the edges. I wouldn't mind picking up another M62 in case this goes south.
17852
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
604 Posts
Definitely amateur work, but I've seen a lot worse. I did forget about the pulley, is it the 3.1 default? You could go down to 3.0 maybe 2.9 if you really want to push it - although on a 2.2L '09, I wouldn't. It has weaker rods than the forged rods and pistons the '06/'07 had.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Definitely amateur work, but I've seen a lot worse. I did forget about the pulley, is it the 3.1 default? You could go down to 3.0 maybe 2.9 if you really want to push it - although on a 2.2L '09, I wouldn't. It has weaker rods than the forged rods and pistons the '06/'07 had.
Sorry on the delay; lots of work this week. Took it in for an inspection and I needed to replace my front strut assemblies. It was straight forward other than the fact the swaybar end links had no wrench notch on the back..... yeah they were that bad. Took 6hrs to replace both sides, but it rides like a dream now!! Back on Topic: Yes the default pully is 3.1, it comes with the "kit" . A 2.8 pully came with the M62, definitely starting with the 3.1 ; that's what 7-10psi???
As for the M62, after further inspection it turns out some dirt/sand was in the housing (Probably from shipping). I kept turning it by hand & the sound would come and go, so I kept turning slowly and the sound vanished. Now all you can hear are the rotors turning as you spin it. I'm Still going to bring it to a speed shop to verify.
Yeah, I'm well aware that the 2.2 is rated @ 250max crank, this is why I'm going to rebuild another 2.2 with better internals.
Not sure if I mentioned this, but I plan on keeping this car. Doing my best to restore it; only minor scratches, very little amount of dents, inside is almost mint. After I got out of college in '03 I had leased a 2001 Caviler Sport w/ the ecotec & Fell in love with the new body style. The G5 is relatively easy to work on with lots of aftermarket options, I really do think the G5 was GMs secret domestic tuner car :p . Will be ordering the OptionB & dual pass this week; header/downpipe & kit are on their way!! I guess I'll use this as my Build log....my "Blog"; I'll try and keep every upgrade/fix posted as it could be useful to someone else down the road. Thanx again Dark!!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
604 Posts
That's good that it doesn't grind anymore, but you don't know if that dirt was in there while in use either, so best to verify with a shop (the m62 is actually a fairly common blower). Sounds like this will be a nice project car, and I'm sure you'll take precautions when doing your benchmarking.
With the DP, did you get the added bung option for the wideband sensor? That's an absolute must when F/I. Additionally, you'll need to do a tune once everything is installed; you can get a canned tune from ZZP to hold you over until you either take it to a performance shop, or learn how to do it yourself in HP Tuners forums.
As for the end links, whenever I do them, I just jam a wrench in the back to hold it place then blast it with an impact. Usually only takes 30 seconds. Vice grips work too when my tools grow legs and walk away.
As for posting, while there's literally only 5 of us left here, if you do post here, I will for sure follow along.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I tried to smash a wrench on the end link, but it was so bad (probably from sitting for so long) there was NO notch for the 17mm to grab onto. Resulted to using vicegrips like you said. The new endlinks have an allen key on the front, so next time should't be as hard. Yeah, I had them add a second O2 for my wideband which I'm running tomorrow. They were lagging on shipping my DP/headers so I held off ordering the endplate and OPB 'till they did. So the end of this week I'll order the OPB + endplate & the rest of the cat back 2.5" . I also am getting their ECU tune. I wanted to go Haltech b/c I'm an HT fanboi, but I couldn't justify a stand alone when the factory ECU is enough.

Update: Car is back from the shop; I had to have them do my rear drums ( they had seized to the hubs). After doing the whole suspension myself I figured I'd take a break and have them do it lol So now the car has brand new suspension, breaks & tires. I started to play around with HPTuners & I tell you... the first time was scary. I'm in HPtuners reading the ECU...comes up finished then I click Done. At this point the car restarts itself like a desktop PC and proceeds to throw " Engine Power Reduced". I try to start the car and just get relays clicking all over the place. Tried to start it again, it starts but then stalls on its face. At this point my jaw drops & I start to sweat thinking I just bricked my ECU. That was until I remembered one crucial step after a Read/Write.....open the f'in door to cut power. After I did that the car started fine. Made my mods to the tune; all I did was delete the SAI, disable VATS, and lower the rad fan temp to 198 from 212. Might be a placebo effect but I swear the car has more off the line torque now(I didn't touch any maps). Launched on a ricer Lexus today & spun all the way into second rofl. I'm getting better at launching it, need to make it hook more and not spin (I didn't even dump the clutch).
Next upgrade I think I'm going to do before doing the supercharger is a new wheel setup. Currently I'm running stock steel 15", one of them is bent; Was thinking 17"s. I figure going from a 33lb wheel to a 17lb wheel would give it boost just by itself. At 1/2 the unsprung weight on that axel I would think it would rev faster. I also plan on trying to get into Autocross/Solo II & Hillclimb this summer. We'll see if Covid allows it!! :LOL:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Dark & Cherry I need your opinion. I just got my DP and Headers from ZZP & I can tell you that I'm not impressed. The DP looks identical to a stock DP w/ a second bung + ZZP logo, It's cool I needed a new one anyways.. The header on the other hand... I'm not happy. I'm not a professional fabricator but I am an engineer, my experience is telling me this is not right. To my knowledge headers are built to flow better, why do the runners look like this? Is it on me to port the extra material out of the way? or should have that been done by ZZP?? Paying $400 for a DP+Header combo, I would expect both of them to have a bit higher quality.
Metal Personal protective equipment Auto part Carmine Titanium
Automotive tire Wood Gas Tints and shades Rim
Automotive tire Automotive exterior Rim Gas Wood
Metal Personal protective equipment Auto part Carmine Titanium Automotive tire Wood Gas Tints and shades Rim Automotive tire Automotive exterior Rim Gas Wood
 

·
So Delicious !
Joined
·
5,291 Posts
I thought I had pics of my manifold but its all wrong side.
I think I would really send ZZP the pics and ask about that manifold.
If that's what they sell these days, I think I'd return and find another source.
Looks like crap to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I thought I had pics of my manifold but its all wrong side.
I think I would really send ZZP the pics and ask about that manifold.
If that's what they sell these days, I think I'd return and find another source.
Looks like crap to me.
I contacted them last night about it. It sucks if I have to send it back b/c the Downpipe is flawless & they came as a combo unit. You can tell the damage wasn't from shipping, as the broken welds have rust on them. Honestly, it's almost as if the header has been previously installed then returned. I read through a bunch of stuff also, it seems the DP is done in house where as the header is not; As in a 3rd party they get it from. I know a couple welders, so I should be able to get it cleaned up. Want to try and get ZZP to cut me a deal on the rest of the catback due to this botched job.
 

·
So Delicious !
Joined
·
5,291 Posts
after looking closely at your pics (didn't earlier) that looks to me like the first version that came with my kit, a 1 piece flange. Still crappy looking, mine was all tight in the runners, and they cracked bad :( why they went to making that new version. IDK ????????

New version was CAST and I think 1st version was schedule (something ??40??) PIPE
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
after looking closely at your pics (didn't earlier) that looks to me like the first version that came with my kit, a 1 piece flange. Still crappy looking, mine was all tight in the runners, and they cracked bad :( why they went to making that new version. IDK ????????

New version was CAST and I think 1st version was schedule (something ??40??) PIPE
I think what you have are the shorty headers, the one I got was a long tube. It's a combo they have as the header has a Vband on it + the downpipe to match it. That's why they look different. However, mine aren't stamped w/ "ZZP" on them like your header. Regardless, I sent them an email along with photos. If they ghost me, which it feels like they're doing; I'm just going to order the dualpass+OPB & tune then be done with them. I'll order the rest of the 2.5" exhaust from someone else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ryan from ZZP just got back to me. Looks as if he's going to hook me up with some kind of discount / store credit. He gave me the option of returning it or keeping it w/ a discount, which was really cool of him. Told him I still plan on getting the Dual BP & OPB, 2.5 catback & tune so a discount would be sweeet. That's if I can hammer out the damage, which I think I can. As for you header, I totally overlooked the fact that you went turbo & that's a TC manifold hahah
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top