[Lia89]

My 2007 G5 base recently started lagging on acceleration sometimes, almost feels like something plugs then clears and it's back to normal.

Took it to mechanic who told me the computer had erased all stored codes and that the fuse was fried.

Basically advised me to get a new vehicle.

The thing is my car feels pretty smooth to me most of the time and certainly not like it's time to scrap it.

Any thought?

Thanks

 

[Sir 500mph]

Uh, what fuse blew that'd erase the ECU? That sounds like some bull to me. There would certainly be more issues than just some power loss if you had an ECU issue and you would likely be throwing codes. How many miles/km on your vehicle?
When were your Spark Plugs last changed?
Air Filter? Oil Change & Filter? Fuel Filter? Coolant Flush?

 

[Lia89]

Uh, what fuse blew that'd erase the ECU? That sounds like some bull to me. There would certainly be more issues than just some power loss if you had an ECU issue and you would likely be throwing codes. How many miles/km on your vehicle?
When were your Spark Plugs last changed?
Air Filter? Oil Change & Filter? Fuel Filter? Coolant Flush?

Spark plugs, oil, air filter and coolant flush all 2 months ago. And I believe the fuel filter as well. The mechanic said it was the fuse for obd2 so they couldn't retrieve any error codes.

 

[Lia89]

Uh, what fuse blew that'd erase the ECU? That sounds like some bull to me. There would certainly be more issues than just some power loss if you had an ECU issue and you would likely be throwing codes. How many miles/km on your vehicle?
When were your Spark Plugs last changed?
Air Filter? Oil Change & Filter? Fuel Filter? Coolant Flush?

Only 137000 km

 

[Sir 500mph]

From what I found on the Cobalt forums, the OBD should have the same fuse as the cig lighter. Check if its blown, its under the passenger dash. Do you have a check engine light on or is it just the power loss?

 

[Lia89]

From what I found on the Cobalt forums, the OBD should have the same fuse as the cig lighter. Check if its blown, its under the passenger dash. Do you have a check engine light on or is it just the power loss?

No check engine light. That makes sense because my cig lighter doesn't work.

 

[darkandshadow]

From what I found on the Cobalt forums, the OBD should have the same fuse as the cig lighter. Check if its blown, its under the passenger dash. Do you have a check engine light on or is it just the power loss?

It does have the same fuse as the 12V plug under the radio, not near the ebrake, that's a different fuse.

You can use the box under the hood to confirm what fuse does what, using a bit of Google, but the easiest thing to check is if the fuses themselves are burnt out. As for the lag on acceleration, if you have the standard airbox, it's possible that you just need to swap out your engine bay filter. If you've done that, and you're still having issues, your MAF is most likely dirty. Costs $10 for a can of MAF cleaner, and about 30 minutes to get access to the MAF, spray the crap out of it with that specific cleaner only let it flash for a moment or two, then put it back and test. Your ECU might need a relearn for the first 30-50km of driving but it should fix itself (drive normally, don't step on it).

 

[Lia89]

Thank you! I cleaned MAF, some improvement but still issues. My coolant runs at 104 Celsious pretty regularly. Is this normal or too hot please?

 

[Lia89]

 

[darkandshadow]

I'm going to close your other thread as its a duplicate with no answers.

104C is on the warmer side, but if that's at idle, and it drops while travelling, it's not a major issue (should still be fixed). An easy check if your radiator fan is actually working, is turning on the A/C and recirculate button, fans on full and if you get cooler/cold air. Also have the hood open while this is going and check if the fan is running.

There are currently a few scenarios of which I can think of, given the current set of facts:
1) If the fan isn't running while you have the A/C on, that's your problem. The unit needs to be replaced.
2) If the fan is running, but no cool air
2a) Check the heater. If it's blowing hot air, then it's possible you're low of refrigerant
2b) If your heater is not blowing hot air (it's 91F, it should be hotter than ambient temps) you have a heater core blockage and possibly low refrigerant
3) When's the last time you had the coolant changed? It's probably spent, and if it hasn't been changed (or looks like coffee brown), this is a major problem.
4) How clean is your radiator? Does it have a lot of bugs and debris on it? A lot of bent fins? This will all inhibit air flow to cool down the coolant.

 

[Lia89]

I'm going to close your other thread as its a duplicate with no answers.

104C is on the warmer side, but if that's at idle, and it drops while travelling, it's not a major issue (should still be fixed). An easy check if your radiator fan is actually working, is turning on the A/C and recirculate button, fans on full and if you get cooler/cold air. Also have the hood open while this is going and check if the fan is running.

There are currently a few scenarios of which I can think of, given the current set of facts:
1) If the fan isn't running while you have the A/C on, that's your problem. The unit needs to be replaced.
2) If the fan is running, but no cool air
2a) Check the heater. If it's blowing hot air, then it's possible you're low of refrigerant
2b) If your heater is not blowing hot air (it's 91F, it should be hotter than ambient temps) you have a heater core blockage and possibly low refrigerant
3) When's the last time you had the coolant changed? It's probably spent, and if it hasn't been changed (or looks like coffee brown), this is a major problem.
4) How clean is your radiator? Does it have a lot of bugs and debris on it? A lot of bent fins? This will all inhibit air flow to cool down the coolant.

Thank you very much, I will try checking these things today. I just had coolant changed and radiator serviced within the last 2 months.