G5 Club banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone.


I drove onto a median.
In doing so I cracked my transmission pan.

Even though all of the transmission fluid poured out, I was able to make the drive home, miraculously. Wow there is a lot of transmission fluid in these cars. It was a river of red fluid underneath my car. The drive home was 25 miles. Half way home, I had to floor the gas pedal to get the transmission into gear. I pretty much only had high gear at this point.

The engine never really got hot except when I would floor the gas pedal. I think the hottest the engine got was 215 degrees.Most of the time the engine stayed in the normal 190 degree to 200 degree range.

I went out this morning to inspect the damage.
The only damage I see is a cracked transmission pan.
I will get a better look later on when I look at the entire underneath of the car, but I do not see any more damage.

So, I could use some advice about replacing the transmission pan for the first time.
- Expected total costs.
- All parts involved.
- Where to buy parts.
- Tricks of the trade to doing a good job.
- Thoughts, suggestions, comments......

Pictures:


Thank you everyone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,690 Posts
:shock::shock::shock::shock::shock:

You knowingly drove 25 miles spilling oil all over the roadway????

Your engine oil, and transmission fluid are different so of course your engine didn't get too hot. The fact that it DID increase in temp, and that you had to floor it to move says volumes about the transmission getting cooked.

Why didn't you just leave it and get a tow? What would have been a simple replace the pan and fill it back up is probably now a full transmission.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
827 Posts
So is the a how to on how to blow out my transmission? Very nice write up I might have to give this a try tonight.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,061 Posts
You should have kept this fuck up to yourself. Park the car dont drive again till you find your common sense. Sorry if im being mean but if you knew you were leaking fluid just stop driving

sent from my igloo up in canada eh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok.

I appreciate the direct responses.
Had I known then what I know now, things would be different.
It is what it is at this point.
Now I am simply trying to remedy the situation should it be possible.
So, here is the update as to where it is at now.

I did not have the time until this weekend to work on the car.
I attempted to put the car in reverse in order to back up about 8'-10'.
My car is parked on a hill and close to the curb.
I was intending to use my wheel ramps in order to access the front area underneath the car. The car would not get into gear in order to reverse, so I used my Jack Stands. Accessing the area needed to work on the car was a problem due to the curb.
It made everything more difficult. The steep grassy hill caused me problems as well.



I dropped the Transmission Pan, inspected it and the filter for any metal shavings or metal chunks, and inspected the gasket as well. There were no metal shavings nor chunks of metal of any kind. The pan was actually very clean to my surprise, as well as the filter. There was one thing in the pan I do have a ? about. There was a square piece of rubber just laying in the pan about 2 inches squared in size.The gasket looked perfect. It has a metal spine and is much sturdier than the new gasket I purchased.


New Filter Right, Old Filter Left:



Before I installed everything, I inspected the components inside the Transmission Pan area. This was to look for anything that might stand out as being damaged.



I then re-installed the new Transmission Pan and new Filter, but decided to re-use the original gasket. It was in great shape, so I went with it.
Note: the new Transmission Pan has a drain plug. The original pan does not.



Once everything was installed, I filled the transmission one quart at a time with 6.9 Quarts of Dexron VI. Between each quart, I inspected the Transmission Pan and area around it for any leaks. There were no leaks during the filling of transmission fluid.
With the car still on Jack Stands, I then started the car and let the engine run for several minutes while in Park. Then, I shifted the gears one at a time and let each gear remain stationary for a couple of minuted in each gear.

While leaving the engine on, I inspected the under carriage for any leaks.
There are two leaking points. They only leak when the engine is running and do not leak when the engine is turned off.
One of the leaks makes sense, the other I am just not sure about.


The first leaking point comes where where one of the bolts snapped in two pieces as I was torquing the wrench. This would make sense and presume a simple change of this bolt fixes this leak. Yes I did read all of the info out there about torque ratios while installing Transmission Pan Bolts. I was in fact careful to not over-torque the bolts. It is surprising that this particular bolt snapped. There were no issues with the other bolts.

The second leak is streaming out of the inside of the bolt shown in the picture above and in the pictures below. I am unsure as to why this is. I hope someone on here can have some useful information as to what is going on with this bolt. I did test it by trying to tighten it, but is very tight and did not move.




This morning, I went out to look at everything again.
It was my intention today to let the engine run, cycle through all the gears again, and re-inspect the leaks to see if I could learn anything new. It was also my intention to see if the car would have a functional reverse gear and to see if any of the forward driving gears were functional.

With the car still on Jack Stands, I let the engine run for bout ten minutes, then cycled through each gear allowing them to remain stationary for about a minute before switching gears. This time, I watched the front wheels to make sure they were turning, and they were.
I turned the engine off, dropped the car down from the Jack Stands, and attempted to drive in reverse. The car drove in reverse with no problems.
I also drove out into the parking lot in order to test the forward driving gears.
The car did drive forward with no real problems at first, but after a minute or so, everything did not sound good so I parked the car and am calling it a day.

It will be next weekend before I can get back to working on my car.
All thoughts and useful advice are welcome.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
827 Posts
Ok.

I appreciate the direct responses.
Had I known then what I know now, things would be different.
It is what it is at this point.
Now I am simply trying to remedy the situation should it be possible.
So, here is the update as to where it is at now.

I did not have the time until this weekend to work on the car.
I attempted to put the car in reverse in order to back up about 8'-10'.
My car is parked on a hill and close to the curb.
I was intending to use my wheel ramps in order to access the front area underneath the car. The car would not get into gear in order to reverse, so I used my Jack Stands. Accessing the area needed to work on the car was a problem due to the curb.
It made everything more difficult. The steep grassy hill caused me problems as well.



I dropped the Transmission Pan, inspected it and the filter for any metal shavings or metal chunks, and inspected the gasket as well. There were no metal shavings nor chunks of metal of any kind. The pan was actually very clean to my surprise, as well as the filter. There was one thing in the pan I do have a ? about. There was a square piece of rubber just laying in the pan about 2 inches squared in size.The gasket looked perfect. It has a metal spine and is much sturdier than the new gasket I purchased.


New Filter Right, Old Filter Left:



Before I installed everything, I inspected the components inside the Transmission Pan area. This was to look for anything that might stand out as being damaged.



I then re-installed the new Transmission Pan and new Filter, but decided to re-use the original gasket. It was in great shape, so I went with it.
Note: the new Transmission Pan has a drain plug. The original pan does not.



Once everything was installed, I filled the transmission one quart at a time with 6.9 Quarts of Dexron VI. Between each quart, I inspected the Transmission Pan and area around it for any leaks. There were no leaks during the filling of transmission fluid.
With the car still on Jack Stands, I then started the car and let the engine run for several minutes while in Park. Then, I shifted the gears one at a time and let each gear remain stationary for a couple of minuted in each gear.

While leaving the engine on, I inspected the under carriage for any leaks.
There are two leaking points. They only leak when the engine is running and do not leak when the engine is turned off.
One of the leaks makes sense, the other I am just not sure about.


The first leaking point comes where where one of the bolts snapped in two pieces as I was torquing the wrench. This would make sense and presume a simple change of this bolt fixes this leak. Yes I did read all of the info out there about torque ratios while installing Transmission Pan Bolts. I was in fact careful to not over-torque the bolts. It is surprising that this particular bolt snapped. There were no issues with the other bolts.

The second leak is streaming out of the inside of the bolt shown in the picture above and in the pictures below. I am unsure as to why this is. I hope someone on here can have some useful information as to what is going on with this bolt. I did test it by trying to tighten it, but is very tight and did not move.




This morning, I went out to look at everything again.
It was my intention today to let the engine run, cycle through all the gears again, and re-inspect the leaks to see if I could learn anything new. It was also my intention to see if the car would have a functional reverse gear and to see if any of the forward driving gears were functional.

With the car still on Jack Stands, I let the engine run for bout ten minutes, then cycled through each gear allowing them to remain stationary for about a minute before switching gears. This time, I watched the front wheels to make sure they were turning, and they were.
I turned the engine off, dropped the car down from the Jack Stands, and attempted to drive in reverse. The car drove in reverse with no problems.
I also drove out into the parking lot in order to test the forward driving gears.
The car did drive forward with no real problems at first, but after a minute or so, everything did not sound good so I parked the car and am calling it a day.

It will be next weekend before I can get back to working on my car.
All thoughts and useful advice are welcome.
Buy a new or used transmission, your clutch packs are toast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The Transmission may be toast.
Either way, I won't know for certain until I finished what I started and stop both of the leaks.

Once the leaks are stopped and the system is properly pressurized, then I can drive it in the parking lot of my condo to see what I have.
One leak is an easy remedy.
The other I am unsure of regarding the isolated bolt.

So, does anyone on this forum actually have any useful advice for accomplishing the task at hand?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah get a new transmission. Or let a shop fix your issue. That bolt is most likely crack. Also the ppl on this forum dont run into curbs and crack the tranny pan and then drive it for 25 miles. We all have common sense. So none of us have experience your exact issue.
Do not drive after cracking transmission pan: Check.

Now that time has moved on and progress has been made, I am actually seeking current and useful information. What I need is to stop the two leaks and thus pressurize the system by doing so. As stated earlier, The pan has been replaced. One of the two leaks has been identified:Transmission Pan Bolt. The second bolt is what I am concerned about.

The car did in fact reverse with no problem and drove forward.
Progress is being made.
It may in fact be the case a new transmission is needed.
The academic odds are that is most likely the case.
There is also a small academic chance that I got lucky and can get more service out of this transmission.

The proper steps are to in fact troubleshoot what is visible and what is physically doable without dropping the transmission. This requires addressing the two leaks and pressurizing the system. Once this is done and the transmission fluid has fully immersed the transmission, and an attempt of a full test drive of the car has been completed in the parking lot, then I will know exactly what the next future steps are.

What I need now is to address the matter at hand, which is stopping the leaks.
All useful information relating to actually trying to solve this present issue is welcome.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I told you crack in bolt or bolt hole
And from looking at the picture again the fluid is coming from where the bolt is screwed into so i am gonna say the bolt hole is cracked.
By Bolt you are referring to the isolated Bolt, not referring to the Transmission Pan Bolt?
If so, and the Bolt is cracked, would simply replacing the bolt not solve the problem?
Seems worth removing the Bolt for a look next time I work on the car, after I drain the transmission Fluid.
What exactly is the part that specific bolt is screwed into?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
827 Posts
Yes, its obvious you have a leak where you broke a pan bolt. But the bolt that is not on the pan by the head of it appears to be leaking around it. replacing the bolt won't fix it it seems to be a crack in your case. And if the case is cracked the trans is junk because there would be no way to fix it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,578 Posts
The Transmission may be toast.
Either way, I won't know for certain until I finished what I started and stop both of the leaks.

Once the leaks are stopped and the system is properly pressurized, then I can drive it in the parking lot of my condo to see what I have.
One leak is an easy remedy.
The other I am unsure of regarding the isolated bolt.

So, does anyone on this forum actually have any useful advice for accomplishing the task at hand?
a transmission isnt something you really want to attempt to fix on your own. clearly you have mechanical smarts but i would personally take it to a shop. or just grab a used transmission from a wreckers and install it. dropping the subframe can be done in a drive way....very easy job but time consuming if you do it alone. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,578 Posts
By Bolt you are referring to the isolated Bolt, not referring to the Transmission Pan Bolt?
If so, and the Bolt is cracked, would simply replacing the bolt not solve the problem?
Seems worth removing the Bolt for a look next time I work on the car, after I drain the transmission Fluid.
What exactly is the part that specific bolt is screwed into?
see if you can get that bolt out, perhaps the threads are chewed up and thats what is letting the fluid past. perhaps retapping it would help?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thank you kingG5.

It is my intention to fix what is reachable and doable without dropping the transmission.
If I had better tools and a garage I would consider dropping the transmission if needed.
The parking lot of my condo is just not the right place to do a job like this unless I had more experience with Transmissions.

I will inspect that Bolt more closely this weekend.
BTW: Do you know what specific size Bolt the Transmission Pan Bolts are and where to get them?
Auto Zone and PepBoys say they do not have them.
I would like to pick one/some up thisn weekend.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top