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I'm the original owner of my 2009 G5 and have never had a problem or an accident. Today as I was driving it started jerking and the Engine Power Reduced warning light came on. It sounded like it was running out of gas, but I had 1/2 a tank. I made it to my destination. Then when I left, my car started running fine again without the EPR warning. After a few miles the EPR came on again with the bad jerking. Then my check engine light came on. I made 3 more trips (my job). Every time I started it it was fine, then a few miles later the jerking started.

I looked under the hood (because that's what you're supposed to do, right?) and I happened to see a single partially bare red wire that runs to the engine fuse block where it's plugged in (it's not the positive cable). It looked like the black ribbed cover over this red wire had melted. I have no clue if this caused the EPR and jerking, but I'm sure I need to do something about it.

1st, does anyone know what could be causing the EPR to come on? Fuel injector?

2nd, does anyone know what the single red wire plugging into the engine fuse block is called (it's not the positive cable)?

Thanks! Rhonda
 

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Could be the lead from the alternator. The diodes in the voltage regulator inside the alternator can go bad. It could also be the positive from the battery in the trunk. Batteries can go bad in hot weather. Advance Auto will do a free electrical system check. The alternator is a 'Saturday mechanic' job, but will take some creative orienting to sneak it out. May as well replace the serpentine belt, to. They make a 'slim jim' kind of tool to rotate belt tensioner, allowing the belt slack to slip off alternator pulley. These may not be THE solution, but a good place to start.
I'm the original owner of my 2009 G5 and have never had a problem or an accident. Today as I was driving it started jerking and the Engine Power Reduced warning light came on. It sounded like it was running out of gas, but I had 1/2 a tank. I made it to my destination. Then when I left, my car started running fine again without the EPR warning. After a few miles the EPR came on again with the bad jerking. Then my check engine light came on. I made 3 more trips (my job). Every time I started it it was fine, then a few miles later the jerking started.

I looked under the hood (because that's what you're supposed to do, right?) and I happened to see a single partially bare red wire that runs to the engine fuse block where it's plugged in (it's not the positive cable). It looked like the black ribbed cover over this red wire had melted. I have no clue if this caused the EPR and jerking, but I'm sure I need to do something about it.

1st, does anyone know what could be causing the EPR to come on? Fuel injector?

2nd, does anyone know what the single red wire plugging into the engine fuse block is called (it's not the positive cable)?

Thanks! Rhonda
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I had that happen to my car. The message is telling you that the voltage at the fuse block under the hood is low, like 12.3 volts or below and there is a point will it shut down to protect itself. This occurred after attempting to boost a Toyota. The boost attempt killed my battery which was already nine years old. I replaced the battery but problem persisted. I started to hunt around with my multi meter and found a corroded battery cable right at the under hood fuse block. This is the cable that connects the battery in the trunk to the fuse block. Both the terminal and the stud were corroded so I cleaned them. Problem solved.

The battery was not the culprit the corrosion was, the boost simply did in a nine year old battery. This is simple maintenance and I recommend every owner do this.
 

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I had that happen to my car. The message is telling you that the voltage at the fuse block under the hood is low, like 12.3 volts or below and there is a point will it shut down to protect itself. This occurred after attempting to boost a Toyota. The boost attempt killed my battery which was already nine years old. I replaced the battery but problem persisted. I started to hunt around with my multi meter and found a corroded battery cable right at the under hood fuse block. This is the cable that connects the battery in the trunk to the fuse block. Both the terminal and the stud were corroded so I cleaned them. Problem solved.

The battery was not the culprit the corrosion was, the boost simply did in a nine year old battery. This is simple maintenance and I recommend every owner do this.
Good problem solving skills!
 
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