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My experience installing zzp turbo kit.

33K views 56 replies 19 participants last post by  Cherry GT 
#1 · (Edited)
Well this is not really a how to, (but instructions are included)
and not sure if I'm allowed to, so here we go.

I'd like to THANK, Luke (Toolman) for reformating these
instructions to be easier on your eyes.
Thanks Again, Luke !

This is just my experience installing a zzp stage 3 turbo kit.
This may take a few days to complete, I am going to give the
instructions that came with the kit and I will add any thing good
or bad about the install.
I installed this on a 2007 G5 GT 2.4L AUTOMATIC
This kit is designed to run at 11psi on
stock engine. The waste gate is set to 6psi and you turn it up from there
with a manual boost controler. This kit will do more boost than 11psi,
I believe the stock fuel system can only support 12psi, I may be wrong
but taking chances by turning it up while stock.
The kit came with a HPT tune that was pig rich WOT,
it was like 10.0-1 AFR, but I'm sure they don't want to
be responsible for poping your motor.
Hence: why they say it needs to be dyno tuned.
I will say that this sure wakes my car up.
I wasn't looking to make mad power,
just a little bit more fun and I found it.


ZZP 2.4 Turbo Kit Instructions

Note: These instructions are intended for installers with previous turbo installation
experience. Some procedures will not be described in full detail. If you run into any
installation issues or have trouble comprehending any of the procedures, please contact
ZZPerformance or a qualified auto shop/technician to help you through the process.

1. Getting started: Remove the airbox ducting shown here.
Engine Auto part Vehicle Car Automotive engine part


2. Remove the MAF sensor from the airbox.
Auto part Engine Vehicle Car Fuel line


3. Remove the airbox lid and air filter.
Auto part Engine Vehicle Car Carburetor


4. Remove the lower half of the airbox.
Auto part Hood Electric blue Vehicle Automotive exterior


5. Remove the passenger side headlight to access and remove the lower airbox ducting.
Auto part


6. Remove the factory downpipe from the exhaust manifold and catback.
Auto part Engine Automotive exhaust Vehicle Automotive exterior


7. Remove the exhaust manifold from the engine.
Auto part Engine Fuel line Automotive fuel system Automotive engine part


8. Install the turbo oil feed fitting in the port shown below.
Auto part Engine Carburetor Automotive engine part Vehicle

I read about a lot of people stripping out this allen headed plug.
I found out its 6mm and didn't strip it out.

9. Install the turbo manifold at this time.
Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Vehicle Fuel line


10. Remove the oil pan and install the new turbo oil pan or weld the aluminum bung into the oil pan.
Auto part Automotive fuel system Automotive exhaust Exhaust system Automotive exterior


11. Install the turbocharger to the turbo manifold.
Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Fuel line Vehicle

If you get the recirculated wastegate (dumps back into exhaust) you
need to put the downpipe up and wire it out of the way BEFORE you
install the turbo, or you will be doing it twice. I did. lol
Because it WILL NOT FIT after the turbo is installed.
Notice instructions make no mention of this. ??????

12. Install the oil drain hose as shown.
Auto part Engine Motor vehicle Automotive engine part Carburetor

13. Install the 5-bolt turbo downpipe and Primary O2 sensor.
Auto part Fuel line Pipe Engine Automotive fuel system

My downpipe has only 2 bolts, updated turbo flanges.
much better, than bolt together.

14. Recirculated wastegate dump tube shown below.
Auto part Engine Fuel line Vehicle Hose

This is old style flanges, not what comes in my kit.

15. Install the wastegate at this time.
Auto part Engine Fuel line Vehicle Car

Again old style wastegate.

16. Install the turbo inlet coupler and discharge coupler as shown below.
Auto part Engine Vehicle Carburetor Automotive engine part


17. Install the air filter tube in the fender-well as shown below.
Wire Auto part Electric blue Vehicle Cable


18. Vent hose from the valve cover connects to the new intake tube.
Auto part Fuel line Pipe Coil spring Suspension

This is where the v/c hose goes to.

19. Connect the vacuum T to the intake, evap hose, and vacuum hose.
Auto part Engine Vehicle Fuel line Car

I also didn't use the T they supplied,
looked like crap after install. :)

20. Non-intercooled charge tubing, intake tubing, and bypass valve configuration.
Engine Auto part Fuel line Vehicle Car

Where is the pics for the kit I bought with the intercooler ?

21. Typical boost controller mounting with additional line added for boost gauge:
Auto part Vehicle Engine Car Fuel line

Text Line Font Parallel Number

Routing depends on the type of manual boost controler you have.
Mine is a Hallman Pro and only uses a hose to the side port and the
top port is open to the atmosphire.

Intercooler Installation

1. With the front bumper skin removed, install the front heat exchanger. The outer tabs slide
in behind the bumper support bolts and fasten with two additional nuts. The inner tabs bolt to
existing holes on the bottom of the bumper support. Wait until you are re-installing the bumper
skin before installing the inner bolts.
Auto part Automotive exterior Hood Bumper

I did this first thing a weekend before the install.
After I installed the intercooler and pump as instructed to do, I found out
the bumper will hit the cooler and needed to be ground down on the
back side to make clearence. In 4 places I needed to grind back about 1/4"
was my guess. Wrong answer, bumper still won't fit.
So I removed the coooler and reworked the brackets by expanding the top
holes and bending the side brackets to a different angle. By doing this I was
able to move the cooler back closer to the radiator. Just perfect and That
1/4' that I ground off is the exact amount of clearance I have now. Perfect.

2. Pump mounting in driver side fender-well is shown below.
Machine Auto part Machine tool Engine

The intercooler pump pictured and the one in my kit are not the same.
My pump is much larger and would not fit where they wanted it. I got it close to there and then the hoses wouldn't fit right, the bumper wouldn't fit, nor the splash shield on the bottom. Re worked a different bracket and angle. Fits but had to buy different hose to finish this part of the install.
 
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24
#2 · (Edited)
3. Hose routing and filler T are shown below.
Auto part Fuel line Vehicle Exhaust system Automotive exhaust

Because my pump was much longer I had to put a 90 degree
bent hose where they show the clear hose, without the bend
it only wanted to kink the hose. This was my fix.
Auto part Engine Vehicle Machine Automotive exterior


4. Switched power to the pump can be obtained by connecting to the pink wire in the ABS harness.
Auto part Fuel line Engine Wire Hose

I don't hack into factory wiring harness. I ran a wire to the fuse box
and used an add-a-fuse circuit.



5. Tape up the wires to avoid connection issues.
Auto part Fuel line Engine Vehicle Automotive engine part

lol

6. Power and ground wires connected to the intercooler pump are shown below.
Auto part Fuel line Engine Vehicle Brake


7. Run the fill T up and next to the coolant bottle.
Vehicle Car Engine Fuel line Auto part

They used the clear hose by the pump and black hose
for your fill tube. I wanted to know if the coolant was full,
so I used the clear hose for my fill tube.

8. Mount the intercooler, charge tubes, and blow off valve. Connect the intercooler hoses.
Engine Auto part Vehicle Car Fuel line


9. Fill the intercooler system with a water/anti-freeze mix. Turn the key on to run the pump while
bleeding the air out of the system. It may take several minutes for most of the air to bleed out of
the system. Occasionally check the water level in the fill tube and add water as necessary.
10. Reinstall the bumper skin.
Automotive exterior Grille Vehicle Bumper Car

Took about half an hour to finally bleed all the air out of the
intercooler and heat exchanger, poor system, but at least you
don't have to do this often. I also added some purple ice to
help with the cooling a little bit.

I expected to see "THE END"


These are just some pics to show how tight it is in there.
Red Auto part Engine Motor vehicle Fuel line


Red Vehicle Auto part Automotive lighting Car


Auto part Vehicle Fuel line Engine Car


Auto part Fuel line Hose Vehicle Engine


Auto part Engine Fuel line Automotive engine part Vehicle


I'll fill in more info tomorrow night
and write about MY EXPERIENCE.
 
#6 ·
#9 · (Edited)
No breather filter on the valve cover. The hose gets run down by the air filter
and hooks in there. I have seen no evidence of oil there yet.

ok i was about to say it didnt look like it in the how to but are you running b.p.v or b.o.v
BOV, a very quite one. You really can't tell from outside, my car is turbo'd.
I like it that way. lol
If you look in 9th pic on the second post, you'll see the red BOV.
 
#12 ·
Updated some first post.


Instructions are of not much use for the parts I recieved, all different.
about 4 hours to do the bumper, intercooler and pump one weekend.
about 8 hours total work the next weekend and monday, had to have welding
done, plus I had to play with stainless steel hoses while waiting, that took time.
If you knew what to expect and had acess to a lift and could do the welding
yourself, you could do it in a day.

I mean I installed this in my driveway....lol
 
#18 ·
It looks great, CherryGT, I take its probably a lot more fun to drive now. Actually kind of swaying me toward this option instead of the M62... according to ZZP, this kit could be installed on a 2.2 auto as well. I know some of the clearances on the auto are a bit tighter, from your experience, do you think the auto would be a lot more difficult to install? Also, did you go with the 2.5" or 3" exhaust option and did you go catted or catless?
 
#19 ·
Way more fun !
For a 2.2 you need to find your own tuning.
I can't compare the install to a manual. IDK
It wasn't a difficult install if you can solve a few issues
that will arise, since instructions don't really help you.
I got the 3"catless down pipe, but I still have the MagnaFlow
catback which is only 2 1/2". (will be for sale in the near future)
I will be adding a 3" catback someday.
I have to say, that even at 6psi this turbo makes
Pontiac driving excitement come back !
 
#20 ·
Thanks for the input, I wasn't too concerned with the tuning, I'll probably just have Trifecta work their magic for that part of things. Have you had any trouble code problems going catless?
 
#24 ·
#22 ·
Wow, that sure is awesome! You should take some full engine bay pics! Congrats!
 
#27 ·
UPDATED ORIGINAL POST:
Thanks Luke (Toolman) !



11 psi right now, maybe 12 if I make it
to the track at the end of the month.

I actually had to go back after the install and tweek that
charge pipe in the couplers to make the strut bar fit again.
It is really tight there, but not rubbing at all.

Vehicle Car Auto part Engine Automotive lighting


Vehicle Engine Auto part Car Automotive super charger part


Land vehicle Vehicle Car Engine Auto part
 
#29 ·
im impressed man. u keep ur bay lookin real good. i only have mine like that at shows. i like ur polished valve cover. i might try that when i do my motor rebuild.


12 psi is awesome i must say. makes a punch from any of the first 3 gears worthless lol.
 
#33 ·
im impressed man. u keep ur bay lookin real good. i only have mine like that at shows. i like ur polished valve cover. i might try that when i do my motor rebuild.

12 psi is awesome i must say. makes a punch from any of the first 3 gears worthless lol.
Thank You. I agree I have traction issues, need wider tires.

Holy crap... 12psi? I was paranoid about going that high before rebuilding the internals of my engine. So the LE5 is capable of taking that much boost on stock internals? I wonder if the L61 is or if I'm going to need to rebuild before I turn the boost that high. Hey what BOV are you using by the way, I'd like to use a quiet one for that sleeper effect.
I think the stock LE5 could take 14 if you don't abuse it, over that and the fuel system can't keep up, from what I've heard.
I don't know if the L61 can take that much boost without internals.
I have a Tial or a no name Tial replica BOV, what comes in thier kit.

Very nice, Randy!
Undoubtedly Randy, you do some very nice work :)
Thank both of you !
 
#30 ·
Holy crap... 12psi? I was paranoid about going that high before rebuilding the internals of my engine. So the LE5 is capable of taking that much boost on stock internals? I wonder if the L61 is or if I'm going to need to rebuild before I turn the boost that high. Hey what BOV are you using by the way, I'd like to use a quiet one for that sleeper effect.
 
#39 ·
Excellent write-up! Unfortunately, I'm not boosting the 5, I'm saving it for the Talon. :(
So this doesn't help me much haha.

Unless I hit the lotto, then both will be boosted!
 
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