Well this is not really a how to, (but instructions are included)
and not sure if I'm allowed to, so here we go.
I'd like to THANK, Luke (Toolman) for reformating these
instructions to be easier on your eyes.
Thanks Again, Luke !
This is just my experience installing a zzp stage 3 turbo kit.
This may take a few days to complete, I am going to give the
instructions that came with the kit and I will add any thing good
or bad about the install.
I installed this on a 2007 G5 GT 2.4L AUTOMATIC
This kit is designed to run at 11psi on
stock engine. The waste gate is set to 6psi and you turn it up from there
with a manual boost controler. This kit will do more boost than 11psi,
I believe the stock fuel system can only support 12psi, I may be wrong
but taking chances by turning it up while stock.
The kit came with a HPT tune that was pig rich WOT,
it was like 10.0-1 AFR, but I'm sure they don't want to
be responsible for poping your motor.
Hence: why they say it needs to be dyno tuned.
I will say that this sure wakes my car up.
I wasn't looking to make mad power,
just a little bit more fun and I found it.
ZZP 2.4 Turbo Kit Instructions
Note: These instructions are intended for installers with previous turbo installation
experience. Some procedures will not be described in full detail. If you run into any
installation issues or have trouble comprehending any of the procedures, please contact
ZZPerformance or a qualified auto shop/technician to help you through the process.
1. Getting started: Remove the airbox ducting shown here.
2. Remove the MAF sensor from the airbox.
3. Remove the airbox lid and air filter.
4. Remove the lower half of the airbox.
5. Remove the passenger side headlight to access and remove the lower airbox ducting.
6. Remove the factory downpipe from the exhaust manifold and catback.
7. Remove the exhaust manifold from the engine.
8. Install the turbo oil feed fitting in the port shown below.
I read about a lot of people stripping out this allen headed plug.
I found out its 6mm and didn't strip it out.
9. Install the turbo manifold at this time.
10. Remove the oil pan and install the new turbo oil pan or weld the aluminum bung into the oil pan.
11. Install the turbocharger to the turbo manifold.
If you get the recirculated wastegate (dumps back into exhaust) you
need to put the downpipe up and wire it out of the way BEFORE you
install the turbo, or you will be doing it twice. I did. lol
Because it WILL NOT FIT after the turbo is installed.
Notice instructions make no mention of this. ??????
12. Install the oil drain hose as shown.
13. Install the 5-bolt turbo downpipe and Primary O2 sensor.
My downpipe has only 2 bolts, updated turbo flanges.
much better, than bolt together.
14. Recirculated wastegate dump tube shown below.
This is old style flanges, not what comes in my kit.
15. Install the wastegate at this time.
Again old style wastegate.
16. Install the turbo inlet coupler and discharge coupler as shown below.
17. Install the air filter tube in the fender-well as shown below.
18. Vent hose from the valve cover connects to the new intake tube.
This is where the v/c hose goes to.
19. Connect the vacuum T to the intake, evap hose, and vacuum hose.
I also didn't use the T they supplied,
looked like crap after install.
20. Non-intercooled charge tubing, intake tubing, and bypass valve configuration.
Where is the pics for the kit I bought with the intercooler ?
21. Typical boost controller mounting with additional line added for boost gauge:
Routing depends on the type of manual boost controler you have.
Mine is a Hallman Pro and only uses a hose to the side port and the
top port is open to the atmosphire.
Intercooler Installation
1. With the front bumper skin removed, install the front heat exchanger. The outer tabs slide
in behind the bumper support bolts and fasten with two additional nuts. The inner tabs bolt to
existing holes on the bottom of the bumper support. Wait until you are re-installing the bumper
skin before installing the inner bolts.
I did this first thing a weekend before the install.
After I installed the intercooler and pump as instructed to do, I found out
the bumper will hit the cooler and needed to be ground down on the
back side to make clearence. In 4 places I needed to grind back about 1/4"
was my guess. Wrong answer, bumper still won't fit.
So I removed the coooler and reworked the brackets by expanding the top
holes and bending the side brackets to a different angle. By doing this I was
able to move the cooler back closer to the radiator. Just perfect and That
1/4' that I ground off is the exact amount of clearance I have now. Perfect.
2. Pump mounting in driver side fender-well is shown below.
The intercooler pump pictured and the one in my kit are not the same.
My pump is much larger and would not fit where they wanted it. I got it close to there and then the hoses wouldn't fit right, the bumper wouldn't fit, nor the splash shield on the bottom. Re worked a different bracket and angle. Fits but had to buy different hose to finish this part of the install.
and not sure if I'm allowed to, so here we go.
I'd like to THANK, Luke (Toolman) for reformating these
instructions to be easier on your eyes.
Thanks Again, Luke !
This is just my experience installing a zzp stage 3 turbo kit.
This may take a few days to complete, I am going to give the
instructions that came with the kit and I will add any thing good
or bad about the install.
I installed this on a 2007 G5 GT 2.4L AUTOMATIC
This kit is designed to run at 11psi on
stock engine. The waste gate is set to 6psi and you turn it up from there
with a manual boost controler. This kit will do more boost than 11psi,
I believe the stock fuel system can only support 12psi, I may be wrong
but taking chances by turning it up while stock.
The kit came with a HPT tune that was pig rich WOT,
it was like 10.0-1 AFR, but I'm sure they don't want to
be responsible for poping your motor.
Hence: why they say it needs to be dyno tuned.
I will say that this sure wakes my car up.
I wasn't looking to make mad power,
just a little bit more fun and I found it.
ZZP 2.4 Turbo Kit Instructions
Note: These instructions are intended for installers with previous turbo installation
experience. Some procedures will not be described in full detail. If you run into any
installation issues or have trouble comprehending any of the procedures, please contact
ZZPerformance or a qualified auto shop/technician to help you through the process.
1. Getting started: Remove the airbox ducting shown here.
2. Remove the MAF sensor from the airbox.
3. Remove the airbox lid and air filter.
4. Remove the lower half of the airbox.
5. Remove the passenger side headlight to access and remove the lower airbox ducting.
6. Remove the factory downpipe from the exhaust manifold and catback.
7. Remove the exhaust manifold from the engine.
8. Install the turbo oil feed fitting in the port shown below.
I read about a lot of people stripping out this allen headed plug.
I found out its 6mm and didn't strip it out.
9. Install the turbo manifold at this time.
10. Remove the oil pan and install the new turbo oil pan or weld the aluminum bung into the oil pan.
11. Install the turbocharger to the turbo manifold.
If you get the recirculated wastegate (dumps back into exhaust) you
need to put the downpipe up and wire it out of the way BEFORE you
install the turbo, or you will be doing it twice. I did. lol
Because it WILL NOT FIT after the turbo is installed.
Notice instructions make no mention of this. ??????
12. Install the oil drain hose as shown.
13. Install the 5-bolt turbo downpipe and Primary O2 sensor.
My downpipe has only 2 bolts, updated turbo flanges.
much better, than bolt together.
14. Recirculated wastegate dump tube shown below.
This is old style flanges, not what comes in my kit.
15. Install the wastegate at this time.
Again old style wastegate.
16. Install the turbo inlet coupler and discharge coupler as shown below.
17. Install the air filter tube in the fender-well as shown below.
18. Vent hose from the valve cover connects to the new intake tube.
This is where the v/c hose goes to.
19. Connect the vacuum T to the intake, evap hose, and vacuum hose.
I also didn't use the T they supplied,
looked like crap after install.
20. Non-intercooled charge tubing, intake tubing, and bypass valve configuration.
Where is the pics for the kit I bought with the intercooler ?
21. Typical boost controller mounting with additional line added for boost gauge:
Routing depends on the type of manual boost controler you have.
Mine is a Hallman Pro and only uses a hose to the side port and the
top port is open to the atmosphire.
Intercooler Installation
1. With the front bumper skin removed, install the front heat exchanger. The outer tabs slide
in behind the bumper support bolts and fasten with two additional nuts. The inner tabs bolt to
existing holes on the bottom of the bumper support. Wait until you are re-installing the bumper
skin before installing the inner bolts.
I did this first thing a weekend before the install.
After I installed the intercooler and pump as instructed to do, I found out
the bumper will hit the cooler and needed to be ground down on the
back side to make clearence. In 4 places I needed to grind back about 1/4"
was my guess. Wrong answer, bumper still won't fit.
So I removed the coooler and reworked the brackets by expanding the top
holes and bending the side brackets to a different angle. By doing this I was
able to move the cooler back closer to the radiator. Just perfect and That
1/4' that I ground off is the exact amount of clearance I have now. Perfect.
2. Pump mounting in driver side fender-well is shown below.
The intercooler pump pictured and the one in my kit are not the same.
My pump is much larger and would not fit where they wanted it. I got it close to there and then the hoses wouldn't fit right, the bumper wouldn't fit, nor the splash shield on the bottom. Re worked a different bracket and angle. Fits but had to buy different hose to finish this part of the install.